Cowell’s Cuisine

Poldark and Stormy

Spring has sprung, and what I like best about this time of year is the sense that summer is just around the corner. It also means I can walk from my home to board the ferry and head across the bay to St Mawes. So on a bright but breezy morning we set off with Mrs C sat below deck, intent on keeping her hair and make-up intact.

There are plenty of upmarket places to eat in St Mawes but if you are looking for a simple inexpensive lunch or dinner, one of my favourite places is The Watch House. The restaurant sits on the harbour with lovely views across to St Anthony’s Head. This cosy venue is committed to serving local, seasonal produce and fresh seafood straight out of St Mawes Bay. I also like the fact all their vegetables are sourced from a local farm.

After enduring a rather squally ferry crossing, Mrs C seized the cocktail menu and promptly ordered a Poldark and Stormy – a mix of dark rum and ginger beer which instantly erased any lasting memory of her boat ride. I chose a lovely Chateau Beaulieu Rose from Provence. We shared a starter plate of salt and vinegar crispy squid, which came with an ingenious mix of Asian vinegar and chilli mayonnaise. For mains I chose the moules frites and Mrs C had the pumpkin ravioli, a clever concoction of roast onions, butternut squash, kale, pinenuts and sage burnt butter. The Watch House is a cool and calm oasis, and the food clearly demonstrates the chef’s love of using fresh, local ingredients. They also serve a seriously good Sunday lunch, including a dry aged, grass fed Bodmin Moor rib of beef with horseradish and Yorkshire pudding. There is also a chicken or pork roast – but ensure you book ahead for Sunday lunch as they do get very busy.

On the return ferry crossing there were just the two of us on board. The sky suddenly darkened to pitch black, with tiny patches of deep blue peeping through. The wind had come up and the boat began to pitch and roll. As I stood on deck, I thought of Mrs C sat snugly below deck while I stood watching the gulls circle the boat as we approached Falmouth harbour. It was then I heard a woeful voice from below…

“I think I want to come up on deck, now.”

I glanced through the cabin window at the skipper, who raised his eyebrows and grinned.

Follow Tony Cowell on Twitter: @cowelltweets