If you ask me, the key to a really enjoyable dining experience is the service.

The food can be amazing – the best you’ve ever tasted – but if the service isn’t right it can ruin the whole thing.

That can apply equally to downright poor service or over-the-top service.

Getting it just right is an art.

And clearly the mantra of those who have taken over and revitalised what is now known as The Unicorn on the Beach at Porthtowan is very much about getting service just right.

Because that’s really what will make you want to return.

Entering the refurbished pub on a busy Friday evening, there was a great atmosphere, a mix of people eating and drinking in the informal bar setting and those sitting down to a full-on meal in the restaurant area, which is under a conservatory with sea views.

The staff were great – friendly, welcoming, but not overbearing.

There was no rush. We took our time to peruse the menu and choose what we wanted.

Those who waited our table really knew their stuff. They went through every dish, describing it in detail and giving us plenty to think about.

The menu, at first glance, is actually pretty small, but here it’s all about the daily specials, of which there are as many, if not more, dishes than are on the ‘permanent’ menu.

That’s because it’s all about what’s come off the boat that day, what’s in season and what the butcher is recommending.

Feeling very well informed, we decided to share a starter of crispy squid with chilli and mango.

Falmouth Packet:

It was excellent, with fresh flavours and a nice mix of sweetness and zing.

For main course I decided to treat myself – I figured that £20 was very reasonable for a 10oz chateaubriand steak, which our waitress warned me could suit two people, or a hungry one.

Falmouth Packet:

Arriving a good hour after we’d first sat down – which we thought was perfect and exactly the sort of pace of meal we wanted – my steak was superb. Cooked perfectly medium-rare, it was full of flavour and was just right portion-wise, although with the addition of chips and some pretty hefty onion rings, I could see why it could be shareable.

My other half went for cod shakshuka, harissa and egg. A Middle Eastern take on a classic, it saw some beautiful fish married to a spicy tomato sauce and poached egg.

Packed with sweet flavour, it was one of those unexpected experiences that delighted.

Falmouth Packet:

Both were matched with appropriate glasses of wine thanks to our waitress. Sure, there was some gentle up-selling, but it came on the back of excellent knowledge of the menu.

The new owners of The Unicorn on the Beach have made a heavy investment in transforming the place and, with food and – importantly – service this good, they’ve every chance of making it a real dining destination.

Key information

Drinks selection: A wide selection of beers, wines, spirits and softs to suit all tastes.

Our cost (two people, not including drinks): £48

Contact: Beach Road, Porthtowan, TR4 8AB, www.theunicornonthebeach.com

Opening times: Monday to Thursday 11am to 11pm, Friday and Saturday 9am to 12am, Sunday 9am to 10pm

Ratings

Atmosphere: 4/5

Décor: 4/5

Food: 5/5

Service: 5/5

Overall: 4.5/5

Food Standards Agency Food Hygiene Rating: 5/5

In order to ensure objective reviews, the Mystery Diner is carried out on an independent basis without the prior knowledge of the establishment.