PUBS with a view can be a blessing and a curse for those hoping to run a profitable business all year round.

While people will flock to them during the summer months – for a riverside, seaside or countryside experience – the pubs are often tucked away a mile or two down a narrow lane.

One such is The Heron Inn at Malpas. Whilst only five minutes from the centre of Truro, parking is limited and the road on arrival in the village is very narrow.

That brief inconvenience is knocked sideways however, firstly by the stunning view of the upper River Fal and secondly by the delights inside.

Never mind travelling a mile or two down a windy road, if it was ten miles long it would still be worth it.

We began with the latest Italian import to grace our pubs and restaurants – the exceptionally crisp and smooth Birra Moretti (albeit for a rather eye-watering £5.60 a pint)..

The menu has a real leaning towards fish and in the spirit of the sea, I opted for hake.

My first mouthful was slightly under-seasoned, but I soon realised that the olives and chorizo which lay beneath offered a wonderful salty balance.

Presented in a bowl/plate hybrid, the depth enabled the juices to mingle and it really was a stunning dish, full not only of taste but also fantastic colours.

It was complimented by a perfectly chilled Viognier, which I opted for ahead of the more regular choices of Pinot Grigio and a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc.

My eating buddy had a giant-sized Cajun chicken burger packed with salad, gherkins, cheese, bacon and of course, chicken.

Fat chips and apple coleslaw provided the accompaniments and the only criticism was that the bread on the burger was too thick, so much so that much of the base wasn’t eaten.

Perhaps and open burger – if such a thing exists – may be worth considering so as not to overbear lunchtime diners.

It proudly highlights their extensive use of local suppliers on a blackboard, which is a nice touch.

The service was impeccable – extremely friendly and accommodating but not overpowering – while the recent refurbishment captures a great mix of smart and cosy.

A perfect antidote to two hours of soggy Christmas shopping.

Our cost (two people, one course, three drinks): £44.90

Address: Trenhaile Terrace, Malpas, Truro TR1 1SL

Contact: 01872 272773

Food hours: Open all day from 9.30am, serving breakfasts up until 11.30am (11am on Sundays). Full menu from 12pm until 9pm,


Atmosphere: 4/5

Décor: 5/5

Food: 5/5

Service: 5/5

Overall: 5/5

Food Standards Agency Food Hygiene

Rating: 5 stars

In order to ensure objective reviews, the Mystery Diner is carried out on an independent basis without the prior knowledge of the establishment.