Cowell’s Cuisine

A real catch…

When it comes to cocktails Mrs C will tell you there is one place she holds very dear to her heart – and it’s a mere ferry trip across the bay. But on a wild and windy morning from Falmouth to St Mawes it proved quite a challenge as there were hair issues galore – Mrs C’s, not mine – which saw her spend the whole 20 minute voyage below deck looking for a mirror.

The Idle Rocks Hotel enjoys the most beautiful location, perched on the harbour wall of St Mawes, the quintessential Cornish fishing village. It is impossible to get any closer to the water, so it presents the perfect vantage point for lunch. This special place is so much more than cocktails, it offers up a real culinary treat, served up in a cool and unpretentious manner. So let’s get the cocktails out of the way.

After much deliberation Mrs C chose a spiced apple and raspberry martini, made up of vodka with a gingerbread syrup, which she described as, ‘a warm cuddle with a kick.’ My starter was stunning, a cured fillet of mackerel with cucumber, radish and dill. For main course Mrs C had the roast chicken breast with herb skin and Yorkshire pudding which amazingly kept her silent for well over half an hour. I opted for the catch of the day which was curried cod, cauliflower puree, Israeli cous cous and herb yoghurt. For desert we shared a hot chocolate fondant with ice cream. This is food on another level.

It is no surprise the Idle Rocks was recently voted best restaurant in the prestigious Trencherman’s Guide, it is a haven of classy calm that I genuinely believe stands as a beacon for what Cornish food is all about. Head chef, Guy Owen is a man who knows how to please, and the staff here are adorable.

As Mrs C was about to slip into a cocktail coma we saw the ferry coming in to dock. “I hope it’s not so windy on the way home,” she said, pushing her hair up into a bun.

As we stood on the bow of the ferry, Falmouth came into view, I felt a wave of warm nostalgia wash over me. And I couldn’t help but wonder, we are so lucky to live in such a beautiful place.

Follow Tony Cowell on Twitter: @cowelltweets